The state of Cambodia’s rail system is in need of improvement. There is one train service between Phnom Penh and Battamabang a week, and the 280 kilometer trip may take a very long time. The trains are old and constantly break down. Although the situation is improving, with 2010 a target for full rehabilitation, as stated by the director of Cambodian Railways, it is still in bad condition and many citizens have taken matters into their own hands.
The norry, also called the bamboo train, is Cambodia’s improvised rail vehicle. The ‘trains’ are made of bamboo slats with a steel frame. The platform rests on wheels usually taken from abandoned tanks. A motorcycle or tractor engine provides the horsepower and a dried grass mat serves as a luxury seat for passengers. They can reach speeds of up to 40 kilometers an hour.
So, what to do if two norries meet head on? The operators of these bamboo trains adhere to a simple and sensible code. The train carrying more passengers gets to continue on. So, how does the other train make way for the train with the heavier load? The train operator shuts off the engine and actually disassembles the norry and lifts it off the tracks, usually with assistance from the conductor of the train with the heavier load. This whole process can be done in less than a minute. Then, the train heads off and the disassembled train gets built back and goes off to its destination.
Norries have low fares, appear frequently and are relatively fast making them popular despite their basic design, the often broken and warped tracks the norries run on and a lack of organization present in a state rail system.
If you are planning on visiting Battambang, why not take a short excursion on the norry? It is a mode of transportation favored by many and is a great way for you to experience a part of Cambodian life. Our Battambang Escape tour is the perfect introduction to Cambodia’ second largest city complete with visits to its main sites, experiences with the local villagers and of course, a ride on the bamboo train. You can also visit our Cambodia tours page for other memorable journeys into this fascinating country. Feel free to contact us if you have any questions.

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